*Cooling my PC

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Slink

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*Cooling my PC

Post by Slink » Sun Jul 08, 2007 04:05 am

RedFanatic wrote:Holy Freakin' Cow....errr Frog

If you can manage it not only will you be a God, but you'll have to struggle to over power your machine with any of todays app's or games
Heh, that is only with a really powerful cooling system. Another method would be to supercool some antifreeze coolant in a subzero (Celsius) chamber, and liquid-cool with the cold coolant as done typically. That would grant you ridiculous over-clocking power, ALA you don't burn up anything internally. You would probably run into a timing error before you EVER fried ANYTHING. That would be cool. Literally.

Me, I am just trying to avoid the whole liquid cooling system altogether and just use cooled air. There must be a tinier compressor available...

Anyone have any advice to help me create a miniature fridge (beside not storing drinks in my case)? ;)

So far, I am thinking of getting a small motorbike radiator for the evaporation chamber. (That would be where the actual cooling takes place.)

Since cooling any air out in the open will cause it to dehumidify as its water vapor condenses to liquid water on the cooling surface, as long as all air intake comes past the cooler first, I don't have to worry about water condensation on the electronic parts (expensive $#!t in my computer!). All I would have to do there is either drain the condensation into a collection bin or do something similar with an absorbent antimicrobial sponge.

Now, I could actually recycle the air in the PC if I can get it to stay cold enough. That way it would be more efficient, of course. This method would eliminate the problem of condensation due to constantly dragging fresh air into the system.

The simpler option is to merely cool incoming air using a cooling grid. That worries me that I may have to thoroughly dispose of condensation lest I destroy my PC with it. I also feel that it would not be as efficient/effective.

Comments, anyone?

-Slink

P.S. In that super-liquid-cooled thing that I'm not going to do, coolant would need to circulate quite rapidly to achieve rapid cooling.
Last edited by Slink on Wed Jul 18, 2007 05:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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RedFanatic
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Post by RedFanatic » Mon Jul 09, 2007 02:26 am

Well i'm a class one Numpty when it come to technical stuff, but i will say one thing.

I don't like the thought of condensation anywhere near a PC, so i would employ either the 'constantly dragging fresh air into the system' idea or that AND the sponge thingy,
Basically max out the anti-condensation ability of whatever you end up with.

Also how would it be powered?
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Slink

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Post by Slink » Mon Jul 09, 2007 04:49 am

I would probably have to obtain a DC psu other than the one in my PC.

I suppose that all of the fresh air taken in would have to be dehumidified. I suppose I like the fresh air idea also... :) If I were able to control all air taken in, I could certainly dehumidify it, thus cooling it.

One really interesting and ridiculously meticulous system that already exists is the Vapochill system. I love this review: CHECK IT.> http://www.techreport.com/reviews/2003q ... dex.x?pg=1

It is rather interesting. See the approach they take to avoid condensation, what with the "foam and goo". ;)

I don't trust the idea of relying solely upon the evaporator as the heatsink. I would rather rely on air cooling assisted by a phase change cooling element. Of course, that will limit the direct cooling capability and thus overclocking capability of the chips, but I figure, why f**k with a good thing?

Now, what the hell to do with the condensed water? I guess it is finally time to pimp out my PC with a water dispenser. Mmm, chilled, distilled goodness, like nature never intended.

-Slink
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Vuzeth
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Post by Vuzeth » Mon Jul 09, 2007 08:56 pm

Slink, once you are done making that refrigerator PC post here some photos, instructions and approx. budget. The idea is really interesting.
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Slink

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Post by Slink » Tue Jul 10, 2007 01:41 am

Thank you.

* I have come to the conclusion that may need to carefully insulate the entire computer so that no moist air can enter the system.

* I must even install a PC exhaust vent with an emergency door in case the circulation system fails (air stops moving). That way, I can isolate the chilled system from moisture in the event that the fans do seize, or perhaps whenever the system is shut down? (maybe I will just use one-way vents)

* I may also decide to install a heating element to warm any dehumidified air before it enters the system, so that I may safely warm the components without water condensation, before powering down.

These steps may be necessary to prevent water condensation.

Still thinking about it... ;)

-Slink
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Post by Slink » Wed Jul 11, 2007 12:34 am

Some condensation stuff.

http://www.crazypc.com/articles/condensation.htm

This one is cool! Instead of using a phase change system, a Peltier (or Thermoelectric Cooling) heat pump is used! This device moves heat by itself, independent of heat diffusion. Thus, heat can be moved against the temperature gradient, sucking heat from a cold object and "pumping" it into an already hot area.
http://www.virtual-hideout.net/reviews/ ... ndex.shtml

I never knew about this cooling effect, but it sure as hell looks more promising than turning my PC into a phase change fridge.

HOLY CrAP! This guy is running the same CPU as I have, and LOOK AT THE SPEED BEFORE IT CRASHED! (2.4GHz standard)
Check out the shots of the unit on the second link in this post.

IT ONLY COSTS ABOUT $130! And it sure seems to work...

Hmm... I just got a deliciously evil plan! I must use the TEC/Peltier cooler on the cpu, and refrigerate all incoming air so as to dehumidify and cool it! :) Now, to check for a TEC GPU cooler!
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Post by Slink » Thu Jul 19, 2007 04:36 am

Dudeness, WTF, OMG and such...

Riddle me this:

What liquid does not conduct electricity but does conducts heat, and is easily available?

HINT> It doesn't mix homogeneously with water either. ;)


Oil.

Totally forgot about OIL cooling. TEC is always an excellent choice to interface between chip and heatsink (don't forget the heat transfer goo!) and it would be even BETTER in an oil-cooled PC.

What is oil cooling you ask? :evillaugh:
http://oilcooledcomputer.com/Photos.aspx (Recommend Internet Explorer to view)
http://www.pugetsystems.com/submerged.php (AWESOME)
http://www.techeblog.com/index.php/tech ... -cooled-pc


I recommend mineral or silicone oil as it is not organic (will not biodegrade/rancify) and does not look like absolute $#!T as seen in cooking oil.

CHECK THAT $#!T OUT!

-Slink
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boss429
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Post by boss429 » Thu Jul 19, 2007 06:28 am

I wonder if automotive oil would work. It's probably cheaper than silicon or mineral. But it is dark brown instead of clear.
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Post by Slink » Thu Jul 19, 2007 09:19 am

Yes it would work. Any oil will work. One could use automotive oil, but only the full synthetic type should be used. The mineral oil would cost about $60, apparently. Cool stuff! One guy had CO2 (dry ice) in the oil, the oil temp was -62*C! :)

Update (forcing you to look at an image from one of the above links ;) ):
This is a PC in mineral oil with a computer liquid cooler radiator implemented. Sexy...
Image
(Yes it is an aquarium container.)
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Slink

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Post by Slink » Wed Nov 14, 2007 01:08 am

Dude, what if you combine thermoelectric cooling AND oil submersion? Something tells me you could get very cool, very easily.

I just wonder this:
If the TEC unit pumps heat more easily when the heatsink side (where heat is dumped) remains cooler. This would be good to know.

Does anyone know about TEC cooling?
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Post by Damien_Azreal » Tue Jan 08, 2008 01:20 am

I use fans for cooling my PC, I would love to do liquid cooling... but a few reasons keep me from doing it.

It can be pricey
I've never done it myself
And I'm not convinced about liquids running through my PC. ;)
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Post by Slink » Tue Jan 08, 2008 06:37 am

I recommend using oil as coolant IF your tubing and fans can handle it without breakdown. Some materials can be dissolved by oil, but mainly latex-based and certain plastics. Most plastics can take oil just fine.

Even if you are using standard block and duct liquid cooling and you aren't doing immersion cooling, oil is a good idea because you don't have the risk of leaking electrically conductive onto your equipment.

Silicone oil is ideal for the job because you only need a small amount with ductwork. Silicone oil (polydimethylsiloxane) was intended for cooling and electrical insulation. Expensive at $60 per gallon.
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